Monday, March 26, 2012

Sumilon Island, Cebu, The Philippines

11th March 2012 Having cooled our heels at the swanky little jetty on very comfortable chairs, we set off into the gorgeous view that we'd been looking at waiting for our boat to turn up and take us to the island. It took a few minutes and then we were mooring at the shifting sand bar and jumping into impossibly fluffy white sand and making our way to the resort on the other side of the island.
From Sumilon Island, The Philippines
As first impressions go, it was pretty damn amazing, the water was crystal clear, the fine sand was bleached white and the sea shifted colours from turquoise to marine blue with plenty of other shades in between. It took a few minutes to cover the interior, Sumilon wasn't all that big, we paid our money – I think it was 3000 pesos each (you pay more on a weekend) and set about exploring this little slice of tropical gorgeousness.
From Sumilon Island, The Philippines
While Kate and Djalma faffed around I wandered off and took some photos of the scenery, the infinity pool, one of several jacuzzi's a cute little jetty that wasn't used any more and the swathes of brightly coloured bougainvillea that lined the walls separating the island from the sea. It was all just gorgeous.
From Sumilon Island, The Philippines
We left our bags near reception and went down to one side of the island where there was snorkelling and kayaking. After a few wave photos I left my camera bag with two guys working a quiet counter and hustled into my mask, snorkel and fins. Getting into the sea was a bit of an issue, the weather was windy and drumming up a good amount of chop on the surface, we made it in with minimal salt water intake and not too much dignity lost, my bikini bottoms don't put up much of a fight when it comes to staying up. We stayed in the water for less than half an hour, the waves kept us rocking to and fro not really allowing for any good photos. The coral was sporadic and there were some fish but nothing jaw dropping – I have been spoiled I admit.
From Sumilon Island, The Philippines
We got out when the rain started coming down and decided to have a kayak race to warm up. We each jumped in our own kayak and raced off down the small mangrove lake, well I say raced, I headed straight into the trees while Kate sailed on past with ease. Even with a good head start I didn't do that well but we did warm up and had plenty of fun tying each others kayaks to trees, juvenile but funny.
From Sumilon Island, The Philippines
We trekked back to the moving sand bar where I waited with the sarongs, flip-flops and my beloved camera while Djalma and Kate went for a snorkel along the drop off. A group of three Filipinos including a very charming halfway there lady boy were having a grand old time with a bottle of rum, I started to feel a bit silly standing there by myself and so wandered round the tiny little sand spit and took several photos.
From Sumilon Island, The Philippines
I love beaches but as a photographic subject I find them kind of limited, mountains and lakes are much more interesting. The sun came out and I decided to head back up to the buffet to wait for the others while stuffing my face, they saw me leaving and left the water, Kate managed to leave her mask and snorkel in the water and we stood in the shade while Djalma went back down to retrieve them. We left the turquoise waters behind and went for lunch. It was pretty good and but I was more interested in the cakes. I had loads, it was a good thing they were all bite sized pieces.
From Sumilon Island, The Philippines
We decided to chill out, literally, in one of the jacuzzis. We mucked about, creating whirlpools and stuff and then decided on some cocktails. The jacuzzi looked out over the sea and we had a great view of the black clouds rolling, time for a tropical storm. We rinsed off the chlorine and had our cocktails back in the pavilion where Kate and I played pool and then darts, neither of us were terribly good but Kate still managed to beat me at everything. We got the last boat back to Cebu and waited for a few minutes on the roadside for a bus going North to Lilo-An and then got the next ferry to Dumaguete on Negros. We were lucky with times, we hardly waited at all for the next boat or bus and arrived in Dumaguete just after dark.
From Sumilon Island, The Philippines

Saturday, March 17, 2012

Oslob, Cebu, The Philippines

10th - 11th March 2012 We pulled up in a little town about 8km before Oslob, we asked for the whale sharks and the guys on the bus dropped us off at the right place, we had a great time trying to find a room near the beach, it was the weekend and everyone had travelled down to snorkel with the whale sharks. We eventually a place to stay with a family, I don't think they were an actual home-stay or hotel but they let us have the rooms in a stand alone building with a plywood sheet separating our bed with Kate's, a couple of fans and the use of a tiny bathroom outside. It wasn't the Ritz but we were relived that we didn't have to go into town to sleep. Getting food was the next big challenge, we were repeatedly told to go the 8km into town and get something there but we persevered and found a place selling pork on sticks – mini kebabs. They were marinated in soy sauce and vinegar and it was the tastiest and most tender meat I've ever tasted, we asked for rice and a lady who'd helped us find a place to sleep went back to her house and came out with a container of rice for us. Aside from the drunk boatman, who kept on trying to form sentences without much luck, it was a lovely meal.
From Oslob, Cebu, The Philippines
We slept well and the next morning I woke the other guys up with my work out, grunting and panting a sweating like a real lady, we donned out swimming costumes and then walked down the road to pay and register for the whale shark boats. We had a little briefing, don't touch the sharks, keep your distance, be respectful to the boatmen etc. etc. and then our 30 minutes of fun began. We got into the little boat, having carefully wrapped my camera bag in a plastic bag and we were rowed out the 50 or so metres to where there was a whale shark swimming around eating tiny fish. We waited until our guy saw the shark and then we jumped in the water with our mask and snorkels to get a closer look.
From Oslob, Cebu, The Philippines
It was amazing. The whale shark wasn't as big as I'd expected it to be and it was also a lot more beautiful. Kate and Djalma had both been looking forward to it while I was a little apprehensive, it was nice to see that it would have had great difficulty swallowing me without realising it.
From Oslob, Cebu, The Philippines
One time while we were waiting for it to circle back round, we were all just bobbing in the water and it swam right behind me, almost on top of me, I caught it out the corner of my eye and nearly wet my pants (not exactly a big issue in the sea).
From Oslob, Cebu, The Philippines
The skin was grey and speckled and looked like velvet even though it was close enough to touch several times, we kept our hands to ourselves and just watched.
From Oslob, Cebu, The Philippines
It was amazing, at one point it came up to the side of the boat and was fed by one of the boatmen. We spent most of our time bobbing round in the water, Kate and Djalma did a spot of free diving but there wasn't much else to see except the shark, our boat man found us and I rather inelegantly hauled myself back into the boat taking most of the paint with me, Kate and Djalma did a much better job of it.
From Oslob, Cebu, The Philippines
Back on dry land we ditched the life vests and had coffee and barbecued pork belly and chicken for breakfast, it tasted delicious and along with the beautiful view of the beach, the boats in the water and the palm trees (of course!) it confirmed a beautiful start to a brilliant day. We were done by 8am and headed back for showers before paying up and leaving. We walked about a kilometre to another jetty where we waited for a boat across to Sumilon Island.
From Oslob, Cebu, The Philippines

Manila, Luzon, The Philippines

8th - 10th March 2012 Having spent the night in a comfortable bed we woke up feeling ready to take on the world, sort of. I didn't feel that great so I stayed in bed most of the day while Djalma went out and booked tickets for flights to Cebu to meet Katie who was coming out for a couple of weeks. He was gone most of the afternoon and just as I was really beginning to worry he came through the door and we went out for dinner. At a 7-Eleven.
From Manilla, Luzon, The Philippines
The next day I was determined to feel better, I got up at 5.30 and pounded through my workout, no doubt waking up the people next door and below us with all the jumping about and heavy breathing, oh well – it was all in the name of a six pack (I wish!). Djalma sent off a few copies of his CV and then we hit the pavement ready for a day of tourism in the capital. We had a couple of snacks from the mini mart next door to our hotel and then promptly got on the wrong bus. We realised our mistake and walked down a few streets to get the sky train to the centre of town (we staying near the airport and not any where central), the streets were busy and dusty and sometimes smelt awful but there was a really nice atmosphere, people were friendly and we had plenty of good mornings and smiles along the way.
From Manilla, Luzon, The Philippines
We spent most of our day in Intramuros the older, walled section of the capital. I didn't know that Manila used to be the Pearl of the Orient, after the Americans and the Japanese bombed it to smithereens, not much remains which is a shame but it was nice to wander round just the same. We stopped for a second breakfast in another 7-Eleven, here the ever present shop has small tables and chairs for people to sit and down and eat and talk to friends, they felt kind of like a cross between a McDonald's and a café, after a warmish breakfast burrito and a watery coffee we headed towards Fort Santiago.
From Manilla, Luzon, The Philippines
You have to pay a small ticket price to get in here but it's lovely, horse drawn carriages were dotted around and took some groups of Filipino students for joy rides around the small green park. There were lots of life sized statues and Djalma and I had fun with some of the sculptures. We made our way through the grounds which are home to a shrine to the Philippines pride and joy, Rizal, a Doctor who was imprisoned for inciting revolt against Spanish rule. He wrote poems and many other things which spoke about freedom, nothing actually that revolutionary but the Spaniards took him down anyway, doing more to help the revolt than stop it. We walked through a small but beautifully set out museum that had pieces of his writings on walls, floors, glass cabinets as well as normal posters.
From Manilla, Luzon, The Philippines
We stopped by the Manila Cathedral which having been rebuilt several times was closed for more renovation, it really seemed that perhaps this Cathedral was just not meant to be. We strolled along the sun baked streets and managed to have a quick look inside the San Augustin Church, built around the turn of the 17th century it's the oldest church in the whole of the Philippines. It's well known for it's 3D painted ceiling, the art is so good it looks like the ceiling is carved but it's just clever paintwork that follow the direction of light from a window at one end of the church. There were lots of alcoves lining both sides of the aisle, the ones on the right (on the way to the altar) were filled with Jesus looking in not so great health, very sad and in very good clothes and the ones on the left were filled with his virgin mother, also rather sad but with almost floor length hair in some and always decked out in the very finest of clothes with plenty of flowers as well.
From Manilla, Luzon, The Philippines
It was being closed for a ceremony so we didn't have time to dawdle, we left through the huge carved wooden doors and started heading towards Rizal Park so Djalma could have a look at the 3D relief map of the Philippines. We strolled through the park and walked around a large pond which the map was in, Djalma loved it and pointed out where we were and where we were heading over the coming weeks, bless that man and his love of maps!
From Manilla, Luzon, The Philippines
After a few photos our stomachs were telling us it was time for food so we started to head towards a shopping centre (to print postcards) and a Middle Eastern restaurant for what would be a huge feast.
From Manilla, Luzon, The Philippines
We sat down in the air-conditioned room of the restaurant and ordered up food that we both loved but hadn't eaten since we'd left Jordan about a year and a half ago. We tucked into the most delicious iced tea and falafel, tabbouleh, sizzling beef, olives, hummus and foul and flat bread. I cannot begin to describe just how delicious that meal was, certainly it was a little too much for just the two of us and we wanted to have even more of the other dishes on the menu but saner heads prevailed and we stopped before gluttony got the better of us. It was so good that the happy food fog settled over me for the rest of the afternoon and I spent my afternoon with a satisfied smile on my face and a full tummy.
From Manilla, Luzon, The Philippines
We strolled over to one of Manila's shopping centres and ordered prints for postcards and checked out what was showing at the cinema on the top floor, we got tickets and then I picked up my photos and make it back just in time to have missed the first few (and crucial) minutes of the film – what happened to the twenty minutes of trailers and adverts and reminders to turn off your phone?! The film was good and it was nice to sit down and give our food time to be digested. After leaving the air-conditioned comfort of the shopping centre we walked along the street trying to find a jeepney going our way, we stopped and asked a security guard who was extraordinarily polite and helpful, he even said 'God bless you' and it sounded like the nicest thing ever (although I must confess that all this Catholicism is starting to feel a little creepy after two weeks in the country). We found one which dropped us off at a place quite far from where we'd asked to be dropped off and so had a long dusty walk back to our hotel for much needed showers and bed.
From Manilla, Luzon, The Philippines
The day dawned on the 10th and we made our way back to the airport for our flight to Cebu to meet my little sister. I started writing postcards waiting for our flight and then we cooled our heels for a while after arriving in Cebu – if anyone goes to Cebu airport, you should really try the sweet rice and the coffee in the airport restaurant, they're rather good. Djalma played cards on the computer and I used my caffeine boost to write more postcards, only 41 of the little buggers, before my anticipation got the better of me and I went outside to wait in the heat for my sister to walk through the door of Arrivals.
From Oslob, Cebu, The Philippines
It took a while, I was very excited, and when she did come out I hugged her for too long and had a little cry. Welcome to the Philippines Katie! I was hungry so we went to a small point-point cafeteria where I had rice and beans and beef and then got a taxi to a bus station where got on a four hour bus to Oslob.