When I think of Morocco, I think of; raw energy, magnificence, reserved people, natural, loud noisy music, spicy cumin, the heat, dust, unexpected patches of green, sand, decorations, huge bunches of mint, toothless old men and women, relaxed stunningly rugged coastlines, huge, splendid Atlas and Rif Mountain Ranges, the desert, camels, long bus rides, fresh baked bread and honey for breakfast, incredible beauty, Kif in the Rif, sad donkeys, beggars, dirt, the sun, women in head-scarves, men in djellabas, old bicycles, haggling, and all of it very last minute.
Morocco is nothing like how I expected it to be and I've been wanting to come for a very long time, ever since seeing it on 'Wish you were here' an old holiday programme providing precious escapism from the humdrum of school/home life.
Everyone is in your face from the moment you leave the house/airport/bus/shop. They work so hard on getting you in their shops or on making a sale it's a strange feeling that as soon as you've capitulated and take a look, they lose all interest in you and don't care about charming you (if they ever did) just as long as you buy something (for at least three times the price it's worth), apparently it's all in the chase. In Marrakesh I watched a woman selling handmade raffia bags to a tourist she had hassled to make a sale. As soon as she had the money in her hot little hands she was away like a shot and the man had to chase after her to get his change back, which she was reluctant to give and practically threw at him while still shuffling off at high speed to find someone else to sell to.
We've made very few real friends from the locals despite them being so friendly. Mind you nine times out of ten the friendliness is just a prelude to an invitation to part with our hard earned money, whether it is after (minimal) services rendered as an unwanted guide, or to a shop if someone shows you the way somewhere 'for free, as a friend' and invites you back to their home! While we were in Fez a young student took us to a small terrace which was public but you'd never have found the way there, he and Djalma talked about different things while I stood further away feeling uneasy about this free service, after all we don't know the guy and it's is truly rare that one will want to help another (especially that other who perceived to have more) without harbouring any ulterior motive. So I was quite relieved that when he invited us back to his family home for some real Berber tea and it was actually a family run factory where his half sister gave us a very soft sell. She showed us photos of their family, all doing camel tours (which surprise! They also offered as well as carpets and cushion covers) and spoke to us about what they all did.
The real down side is that when, on the rare occasion, we do meet someone who is genuine, honest and helpful, I am so sceptical that they are as they seem that I end up missing out on opportunities and feel rude and mean spirited when their lack of agenda becomes apparent.
Norwegian Nils and his Dad commented on the Moroccan view of hospitality concerning western guests – Nils' Dad said that 'They take you in and give you everything when they have nothing, so they must expect you to give everything in return, especially when we have so much in comparison'. This I can understand, we are thought to have so much that we are (I think wrongly) expected to pay more for the same products and services that everyone else has. Understanding it doesn't mean that I like it, it is horrid to be on the receiving end of this assumption. Being a tourist we are treated differently, that's fine – fair enough and often we are charged differently; this I absolutely cannot stand. In Marrakesh when lots of people (nearly all of them Moroccan) were gathered round some musicians and a couple of awful male belly dancers, only we were approached (and hassled) for money and we'd only just arrived and had seen nothing!
Everything has to be haggled down to a vaguely reasonable price whether it's sandwiches, hotel rooms, things from a food market or taxis, in any situation where money changes hands they always try for more, push for more. I can't blame them, it's how they make a living I just don't want to feel like an easy ticket paying over the odds for every little thing I have to buy. I just to want to pay a fair price, not least because we've worked so damn hard to make and save our money.
Everyone is out for something, but that said it would be naïve to expect anything else, we're in Africa in a developing country and in comparison to, in all likelihood, all of the locals – rich as fuck.
With regards to PDAs (Public Displays of Affection) I'm in two minds. I want to be affectionate with my husband and occasionally those moments might happen to be when we are in public. Now I'm not talking tonsil tickling tongue action here, just a standard hug or perhaps a small kiss on the lips – things you wouldn't be ashamed of to do in front of your Nan. Here though, any form of intimacy or affection in public, between a man and a woman, is frowned upon and on occasion handled by the police. What is funny to note is that about 60% of the female population between 20-60 years old is pregnant – no prizes for guessing what happens as soon as the doors are closed!
On the other hand, we are travelling through lots of different places with different cultures and religious beliefs and conforming to the local behaviour is necessary to show respect for the place and the people. As tourists or travellers we can't expect to show up and be able to continue behaving as we would at home if the things that we do are not allowed or encouraged. It is very frustrating though!
This was my first time in an African country albeit a white African country and it was a big shock to the system. More than anything the haggling culture is the most difficult to become accustomed to especially when you first arrive in a place and don't know the going rates for things. The separate pricing systems and being viewed as a walking ATM also sucks as does the long winded 'friendly' invitation to someone's shop – I'd have no problem with it where the friendly conversation genuine but in every case it has just been a warm up for a sly sales pitch, if not for their shop, a friend or a friend of a friend, it always leads to a shop.
It was a beautiful place to visit but next time I would skip more of the tourist spots and chill out for longer in fewer places, maybe Chefchaouen where once you get past the weed sellers it's all plain sailing (and in a much milder climate) or Essaouira where, despite the mass of tourists, its chilled out, by the coast and full of small town friendly people.
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