Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Hat Ton Sai, Thailand

23rd - 24th July 2011 Did I mention that Ko Tao was full of adolescent well muscled European party animals? Well, a large percentage of them also happened to take the night ferry back to the mainland. Joy. Kicking a couple of them off our mattresses and exchanging the condensation soaked sheets (from large bottles of Chang beer) with dry sheets from those yet to arrive and claim their 2 foot mattresses, we settled in to watch the young brown/pink crowd of youngsters talk loudly about recent drug experiences on Ko Pa-Ngan (THE full moon party Island), how messed up they were, who they'd met and slept with and how many of their bestest buddies they'd fallen out with, 'coz' like she was such a bitch'. The chatter started up periodically throughout the night but we did our best to sleep through the noise to be woken up around 5am when our boat shuddered to a halt and we got off.
From Ko Tao, Thailand
Bundled into a very comfortable minibus to be shipped to a not-so-busy toilet we then got into another minibus and from there dropped off in the middle of nowhere to wait for a tour bus to take us across land to Krabi. Of course, despite checking and being reassured that we were being dropped off in the centre of town we were in fact plonked down at a bus stop in the middle of no-where. Rather unimpressed, we had to pay a hundred baht more to get to the ferry point and then a boat round to Hat Son Tai. Note to anyone travelling this way, if you're getting the ferry from the Islands to the mainland, get yourself into town, ignore the touts surrounding the dock and use the government run minibus service, cheaper, less hassle and they'll drop you somewhere central. What a palaver.
From Hat Ton Sai, Thailand
On the upside, it was damn beautiful. As we bundled onto the boat for the last leg of our little trip, it was late morning, the sun was strong behind some white clouds and the karsts (the name of the rock formations here) were dotted about just offshore and in the distance looking rather surreal.
From Hat Ton Sai, Thailand
A few minutes later we pitched up at our rocky beach which, surrounded by towering limestone cliffs and accessible only by water, felt like a tiny remote island in the middle of no-where. We walked up the beach to the first set of shacks we came to and scored ourselves a couple of very basic cheap huts. Interestingly two huts cost just over half of what we paid for one hut on Ko Tao. We put our bags in the room making sure the zips were all done up, Berna had spotted a couple of spiders in their room (oh little did I know), and went out for some much needed breakfast/lunch.
From Hat Ton Sai, Thailand
Engines re-fuelled we spent the afternoon wandering up and down the little beach, Djalma and his Mum swimming while Ned and I walked at our own paces, exploring the stunning coastline. There were huge open rock-faces dotted with climbers almost as agile as the legions of monkeys that clambered across the rock and through the odd tree.
From Hat Ton Sai, Thailand
Staying out of our dark, damp rooms we decided to sit and play cards in the same restaurant we ate our lunch in, we watched the clouds roll in. Out across our little bay was a a group of small Islands and before long they were completely obscured by the heavy grey rain-clouds but the water in-between us as illuminated by the sun and shone a brilliant green.
From Hat Ton Sai, Thailand
We didn't and watch the spectacle for long thoughtfully the storm was headed directly for us and we bundled our things and ourselves behind the huge tarpaulins rolled down to provide the restaurant a bit of protection, Ned was the last to follow, calmly topping up his glass with the last his his beer confident he'd be quicker than the rain. Inside, safe from the battering wind and the driving rain Djalma and I decided to join his Dad and have a couple of beers as well. We passed the rest of the afternoon playing cards and drinking Singha, a very pleasant if unproductive way to spend the afternoon (practising yoga has been all too inconsistent since leaving Bangkok).
From Hat Ton Sai, Thailand
The rains cleared later in the afternoon, it had rained for hours and we'd been drinking all that time, needless to say that after dinner was over we had a very early night. Which brings us nicely to my little bedroom encounter... Walking into our room I noticed something move out of the corner of my eye, a good two inches of something, I let Djalma deal with our cocky uninvited visitor and started getting ready for bed, meanwhile in the bathroom Djalma swiftly despatched another two biggies and three smaller roaches. Teeth brushed, face washed I turned off the lights and lifted the mosquito net to get into bed. Horror of horrors, I felt something scratch against the bare skin of my stomach and screamed. Djalma, entirely unconvinced that I'd encountered yet another of the six legged kind, told me to stop being silly and come to bed. Feeling stupid but shaky I checked the mosquito net and saw the culprit, a shiny hard backed cockroach, feeling much more justified with my verbal outburst I told Djalma to have a look while I sat on the bed scratching my tummy and trying not to cry (I didn't last for very long before I allowed my violated self a tear or five). We made extra sure that the holey mosquito net was well and truly tucked in all the way round and then spent the rest of the night gasping for water but not drinking in case we should need the toilet and have to get out in the middle of the night. To cap off a nights sleep haunted by the thought of creepy crawlies, I awoke with the shits. Well ain't that the cherry on the top. I sat on the loo peeing from the wrong hole and feeling sorry for myself before sending out for some Imodium. Popping a couple of caps in my mouth I felt safe enough to leave the bathroom and venture out for breakfast. We ate, drank lots of tea and played some more cards, whereas Berna and Djalma had won last night, Ned and I kicked their asses in the morning which improved my mood no end. After a little rest back in the bedroom we went out to make the most of the day. From what I recall, we packed up our bags, waved goodbye to the 'roaches and chartered a long tail boat for a tour round some of the surrounding beaches and islands. I must confess that I was a wee bit stroppy and of the two photos there are of me, the only one showing my face, I look it.
From Hat Ton Sai, Thailand
We started off at a gorgeous beach with blindingly white sand and clear water, the Borges Martins' went for a dip, while I stomped about and took pictures of shells and reassured myself that the Imodium was working and that is was safe to fart.
From Hat Ton Sai, Thailand
From there we passed Chicken Island so named after the fowl like rock formation at one end of the island.
From Hat Ton Sai, Thailand
There were more stops in between, I think, but the second to last was a small spit of sand connecting two diminutive islands one of which was a nature reserve.
From Hat Ton Sai, Thailand
After more dips in the sea and more photos we headed to Railay West which while feeling like an island is actually on a peninsula with Railay East (mangrove and rock climbing) and Railay West (beautiful beach and more climbing).
From Hat Ton Sai, Thailand
We had a look round the beach which was beautiful, surrounded by towering limestone cliffs with a Lingam Shrine at one end and then got back on the boat to be dropped off on the East side where cheaper hotels were based.
From Hat Ton Sai, Thailand

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