Friday, October 22, 2010

Kobuleti and Zugdidi, Georgia

17th - 19th September 2010

We walked from the centre of town, which was along the one road everything was on, to Ruslan's house where we stayed for the next two nights. He lived with his parents who ran a big guest house and so we had a room of our own, we put our things in the room and then the young Ruslan sat and talked with us while his Mum made us dinner. He and his friend who also hosted people through couch-surfing brought round some wine and beer and we sat and drank while the guys smoked, Ruslan after plenty of deliberating. With a skin full of booze we went to sleep only for Djalma to wake up in the middle of the night with an asthma attack - our little room was really dusty and the air was cold and stuffy. We eventually both went back to sleep, it took a lot less time for me I was still feeling hammered and were woken up by George at 10.30 for a breakfast Adjurian khachapuri at his grandma's restaurant.

From Kobuleti, Georgia

Feeling utterly skanky we quickly got dressed and went out, he told us how to eat it properly and we mixed in the partially raw egg to the hot melted cheese which did something to cooking it a bit more and make the raw but hot egg white more palatable. We went back to bed hoping to get some rest and only headed back out to go for a walk along the sea front and get some very Russian (and bad) dinner. Ruslan woke up around 5pm and met us by chance in the restaurant taking us back to find that his Mum was cooking dinner for all of us. We tried to eat as much of the fish as possible but when the guys weren't looking a slipped a good amount to the family cats. I had a beer while Djalma stuck to tea and we talked a bit and played backgammon.

From Kobuleti, Georgia

His friend who had been round the previous night with all the wine came round to invite us to his wife's birthday meal and we were invited to eat again. Djalma was feeling quite rough so we passed on the home-made white wine, I'd tried a bit and it was not special, and drank water while the guys downed cups of wine to each toast the drunken Tamada (toastmaster) made. We left after half an hour and made our way to bed. Djalma took his mattress outside and slept on the balcony coming in the room to get me at some point during the night. We left around midday having said goodbye to Ruslan the night before, he was quite sure that he wouldn't be awake by the time we were planning to leave, and hitched a ride out of town.

We got several lifts, one of them was with a guy who drove us round a town we hadn't visited pointed out all the local sights before dropping us off. We ate a tough chicken at a nice restaurant on the way and from there got another lift in Zugdidi a deadbeat town, it is the first town that has actually felt deadbeat where we stayed for a night before heading onto Mestia in the Caucasus.

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